Artist Profile: Esprit Orchestra Conductor Alex Pauk

Artist Profile: Esprit Orchestra Conductor Alex Pauk

By Joel Garten.  Published on the Huffington Post.  See my author archive for the article.

Alex Pauk has been for decades a strenuous supporter of new music in Canada, and for thirty years has been the conductor of Toronto’s Esprit Orchestra , Canada’s premiere ensemble for the performing of new music. Strenuous indeed, as the beads of sweat dripping from his face after last month’s Esprit concert attest. His is a very physical conductor, having studied baton technique in Tokyo’s Toho Gakuen School of Music, and he is passionate about the commissioning and performing of new works for the orchestra.

He had his start in new music as the founder of Array Music, a performing and composing group active in Toronto, which at first began to meet in his apartment.  He soon had the ambition to start a new music orchestra. Through a stroke of good luck, Pauk’s partner Alexina Louie sat beside an executive of Suncor, the oil company, at a gala event. The Suncor executive was reflecting about his company’s charitable giving; they were concerned they were not able to directly fund the creation of new works by artists. Louie immediately recommended he talk to Pauk, who convinced the executive that funding a new orchestra that would commission music was the best way to go.  Armed with seed money from Suncor, Pauk launched Esprit, and for the last thirty years the orchestra has been commissioning and performing new works by Canadian composers.

I asked Pauk what was distinctive about Canadian music. “What is distinctive about Canadian music is that there is a sense of artistic freedom here,” Pauk said, “Canadian music composition is not weighed down by centuries of history and slotted into certain pervasive schools of thought, such as in Europe where you have the Boulez school or the Stockhausen school.”

 

Another distinctive element of Canadian music, according to Pauk, is that composers tend to blend diverse stylistic elements as desired or needed, everything from Romantic to minimalist – and everything in between.

When he first started out, he chose his repertoire from an unlikely source: a score sale at a music store in Vancouver: “I went to Ward’s music,” says Pauk, “and they had all these oversized scores in the back that weren’t selling. Of course they were scores by the likes of Stockhausen, which were simply being sold, especially not next to the scores of Beethoven and Mozart that were on sale in the front of the store. So the store owner sold all these great scores to me for next to nothing, and those were the scores I began to perform.” Today, about 75% of the works he performs with the orchestra are Canadian, and many of them are world premieres of music he has commissioned.

He chooses his repertoire for the orchestra by exposing himself to all kinds of new music, and he also receives scores in the mail and has musical relationships with composers, and those friendships sometimes stretch to decades. “The are certain composers, such as John Rea and Chris Paul Harman who I have such a long musical relationship with that I have seen their music mature over thirty years, from when they were just young composers to now when they are the established leaders of Canadian music.”

With new music, it can be an intense process, which sometimes includes a mad dash to the concert.  “There is a work I am performing in concert in two weeks, and I just received the final score from the composer today by email.  By tomorrow I should have a printed copy on my desk, and then we have to rehearse it with the orchestra.  But once a score comes in, there is an intensity and energy that comes forth,” says Pauk.

One of the bright young stars of Canadian music is composer Zosha Di Castri, whose work Pauk will conduct in Esprit’s March 28, 2013 concert. When he first heard her music, he thought something really remarkable was happening in her work, so he immediately programmed an orchestral work of hers. Since her Esprit performance, Di Casti has been chosen by the music publisher Boosey and Hawkes for their New Voices program, which is a collaboration with Michael Tilson Thomas to nurture new musical voices.  The New Voices program will commission two new works from Di Castri, to be performed by the San Francisco Symphony.

Pauk’s affinity for composition carries over into his choice of repertoire for concerts. “Every concert, and even every season, I view as compositions on to themselves. There is a certain ebb and flow to the pieces I choose for each concert, and the concerts often have themes. The last concert, the Tuning of the World, had an R. Murray Schafer piece that related to sound ecology, an Alexina Louie piece that related to the cosmos and a Iannis Xenakis work that related to whale sounds.”

The Esprit Orchestra’s next concert, on Nov 18 2012, will feature four works. The first is a work commissioned by Esprit and written by composer Chris Paul Harman, entitled Cilla, which is based on the 1960′s pop star Cilla Black’s music. Harman’s composition superimposes Black’s music, which will be played over a stereo system, with orchestral music.

There is also a newly commissioned work by Bruce Mather, which is a microtonal piece. Performing the work there will be a group of five instruments which will be microtonally tuned, meaning the notes they play will be tuned to be in between the standard tones you hear in music. These five instrumentalists will be accompanied by the rest of the orchestra which will be tuned in the traditional manner. It is a compositional concept the Mather has honed for years

The showpiece of the next concert will be a composition by Pauk entitled Musiques immergées. It is made up of three components: recordings of nature, including water, birds, fire and other natural phenomena; an electro-acoustic track made up of an assortment of artificially created sounds; and music that the orchestra will perform live. These three audio streams will move in and out during the course of the work, so that one emerges and another disappears, hence the title Musiques immergées. Alongside the music, there will be projections of photos by the photographer Edward Burtynsky. “Over the years I have been interested in Burtynsky’s work, which looks at humanity’s relationship to nature.” says Pauk, “So when I was putting together this work that related to natural sound as well as human produced sounds, I thought Burtynsky’s work was a great fit. We approached Burtynsky’s staff about collaborating, and they said they didn’t just want it to be a slide show, so they recommended we bring in the experimental film maker John Price. Price took Burtynsky’s work, along with some of his own film and produced the visual element you will see on the screens as the music plays.”

The last piece on the next concert’s repertoire will be Concerto For Flute and Orchestra by Marc-Andre Dalvabie, performed by soloist Robert Aitken, Canada’s legendary flutist of contemporary music.
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Does Pauk have any advice for aspiring conductors? “I say go out and get some friends together who are musicians and just conduct a work. There are many academic training programs as well, and another way in is to go and watch performances.  Today there are so many performances you can watch online, it is a great gift. But most of all, get some friends together and conduct whatever you can, that is the best experience you can have to start.”

 

Esprit Orchestra’s next concert is entitled “Exquisite Vibrations” and will take place Sunday Nov  18,  2012, at Koerner Hall in Toronto, Canada. For more information or to order tickets, please visit http://www.espritorchestra.com/

Joel Garten’s next performance of his piano compositions is Nov 27, 2012 at the Musideum in Toronto.  Visit www.joelgarten.com Modern Classical and Avant Garde Jazz Music  for more information.  

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An Article about the music I wrote and performed during Hurricane Sandy

The writer Colin Cronin has written an article about the music I composed and performed during Hurricane Sandy, on the website String Visions

“This is a truly remarkable story. To visualize how in the midst of destruction and chaos, one person harnesses those energies and directs them towards creative purposes in order to generate works of art is inspiring.”

http://stringvisions.ovationpress.com/2012/11/daily-bow-new-compositions-eye-of-storm/

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Music I composed and recorded Live during Hurricane Sandy

An Article I published on the Huffington Post: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/joel-garten/hurricane-classical-music_b_2054102.html

During Hurricane Sandy, I heard the howling of the wind and the driving rain outside my studio in Toronto. Sandy was hitting Toronto hard, and I was surveying the scenes of the wreckage on the internet. But then I got up and went to the piano, and I became very still and very meditative, and I began to play. After an hour had passed, I had a new body of work; I had improvised a series of new works for the piano, music inspired by the intensity of the storm, but also the sense of calm that had come over me.

There were pieces of metal siding being blown down the street outside, clanging around in the wind. And the trees were shaking violently. But in my warm studio, I was at peace and composing up a storm of my own.

Here are two recordings from that night. Like most of my music, they are very avant-garde works, which are influenced both by the classical minimalist Morton Feldman and as well by the jazz pianist Keith Jarrett :

The first recording is me improvising a new work on the piano. I am playing the keys of the piano with my left hand, and with my right hand I am playing on the strings of the piano with an Indonesian gamelan mallet.

I learned Balinese music in Bali many years ago, studying with an elderly gamelan master. I still had the rubber-headed mallets from the gamelan instrument I learned there, and often use them to play the strings of the piano.

Here is the live recording of that piece:

I use all sorts of implements to play on the strings of the piano, including paint brushes, chop sticks, miniature drum sticks, as well as my hands and fingers. I particularly like to use different types of brushes on the strings, using each different type of brush to create a subtly different type of sound.

Here is a video of me performing on the strings with some implements (from October 20):

The second recording of that night is a longer improvisation which is solely played on the keyboard, and both more contemplative and more intense. I am exploring some new ideas that have come into my music in the last few days, as well as feeling the energy of the weather outside.

Here is the live recording of that piece of music:

After I had recorded the new works, I uploaded them to SoundCloud, a new sound-based social networking website that is considered the facebook of sound, and is very popular among new music artists for sharing music. Within a matter of minutes my new works that were inspired by Hurricane Sandy were up on the internet, and people were listening to them, while the hurricane was still going on.

That night, very late, I wandered into the streets to walk home. It was frightening to walk down the street, the trees were being blown around so violently. I was afraid of being hit by a branch as I nervously walked down the street, watching the pieces of metal siding being blown about. I made it home safe and sound, as my music was being heard around the world.

To learn more and to hear more music by Joel Garten, please visit his website at www.JoelGarten.com

 

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HD Video Interview with Vivian Reiss in her amazing artist’s garden in Toronto. 16 Foot tall corn!

Watch this HD video interview I did with artist Vivian Reiss in her urban farming garden in Toronto.  It featues 16 foot tall broom corn, multi-colored amaranth, and gardening secrets. Enjoy!

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My Music: video and audio files on the web

You can now listen to my music, which is solo piano impovisations, on my website: Joel Garten piano improvsiations 
Video:

A work by Joel Garten: piano improvisation, recorded live, Sept 26, 2012.

A work by Joel Garten: piano improvisation, recorded live, October 4, 2012.

To listen to audio, visit my website Joel Garten solo piano improvisations Toronto / new music Listen

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Artist Profile: The ‘Mix Tape’ New Music Pianist Vicky Chow

Here is the latest article I wrote for the Huffington Post, a profile of new music pianist Vicky Chow:

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/joel-garten/vicky-chow-piano_b_1937990.html

By Joel Garten

Pianist Vicky Chow has a buzz around her. She plays a wide variety of new music; many works written by her composer friends in New York City. She performs with a lightness and ease, and she endows the music she plays with a luminous quality. When I saw her play recently, her hands seemed to become a blur of fingers as she played a difficult piece by Ligeti. Canadian-born and New York-based, Chow is a dynamite combination: she is both very accomplished and very committed to contemporary music.

 

2012-10-04-vickychow.jpg
 

 

A crushed fly on the keyboard was the only casualty of Vicky Chow’s recent concert in Toronto. She plays with such intensity that the poor fly, which was seen flying around the concert space, got smushed into a key on the keyboard as she played, as she announced to the astonished crowd after the piece.

Flies aside, one of her innovations in concert performances is to introduce the concept of the ‘mix tape.’ During her school days at Manhattan School of Music, her classmates and her would trade mix tapes which they gave to each other as secret Santa gifts. She loved the experience, because she would open herself totally, without prejudice, to the music her friends put on the tapes. It was a great way to encounter new music and broaden her horizons. Nowadays, she takes this concept to her concerts, where she presents a new music ‘mix tape’ program of mostly shorter works that would otherwise be difficult to program, all of which share similar musical ideas. During a recent concert in Toronto at Gallery 345, her ‘mix tape’ which she performed included short works by Morton Feldman, John Cage and Ligeti alongside five pieces by living composers, most of which were composed in the last one or two years.

I sat down with her for an interview in Toronto.

Joel Garten: What kind of projects are you working on now?

Vicky Chow: There’s so many exciting things that I’m a part of that right now and I feel like I’ve been jumping from one thing to another the past few months. I want to share it all with you without boring you too much! Anyways, I was just in Italy for the soundRES festival where they had a John Cage Centennial celebration. I got to perform the Sonatas and Interludes for prepared piano by the sea! It was quite magical since the sun was just setting and as the piece went along, the stars starting appearing. Next I’m traveling to Krakow Poland with the Bang on a Can All-Stars for the Sacrum Profanum Festival. From there I directly head to Detroit for New Music Detroits 5th annual new music marathon called “Strange Beautiful Music V” held at MOCAD. They have an eclectic line-up of artists including Shara Worden of My Brightest Diamond all the way to the Grand Valley State University New Music Ensemble led by composer Bill Ryan.

As far as long-term projects, one of them is with composer/artist Tristan Perich. He will be writing an evening length work for piano and 1-bit electronics which will be premiered at Roulette in Brooklyn in February 2013. If you don’t know Tristan’s work, you should check out his first two albums titled “1-Bit Music” and “1-Bit Symphony.”

I also perform with the group Bang On A Can All-Stars, a piano trio with Ashley Bathgate on cello and Todd Reynolds on violin called Typical Music, a six piano group called GRAND BAND (Lisa MoorePaul Kerekes, David FriendBlair McMillen, Isabelle O’Connell) and a piano duo calledDUOX88 with the pianist Saskia Lankhoorn from the Dutch new music group Ensemble Klang.

JG: What is it like playing the music of a living composer, rather than someone like Bartok? Do you approach it differently?

VC: The great thing about playing a living composer’s music is that they are here and you can ask them questions. It’s a collaboration. Sometimes the works are still in progress and I can suggest things. Most of the time they already know what they want so it makes it even easier for me to interpret if they already have a sound they are looking for. For others, the process is about finding the sound together.

JG: When you play, are you most interested in the beauty of the music, the ideas behind the music or the technical aspect?

VC: I like it best when it is the combination of all three. It’s unpleasant to play a piece that is simply technical.

JG: When I came in to meet you for the interview, you were playing a work by Ligeti, which I told you was very beautiful, but which you said you weren’t sure if you were going to perform in the next concert because technically you felt it was a bit sloppy. So I am wondering, would you ever play a work that you felt was really beautiful but you were playing it a bit sloppily?

VC: If I think a piece of music is ready to be performed, then I’ll perform it. If I accidentally hit wrong notes and make mistakes in a performance in the heat of the moment of this or that, I don’t really care about it. However, if I’m making these mistakes because I simply haven’t figured it out yet, then that’s a different story and I’d be hesitant to present it. But in the next concert, maybe I’ll throw the Ligeti etude back in there. I’ll see how the program is going!

Also, with a classical background and training, this pursuance of note perfection is the standard. You have pianists who can play the most ridiculous passages without breaking a sweat and it is amazing. But if they mess up or miss a rhythm when they are performing, and therefore aren’t perfect, that is where their mind is through the whole concert. But beauty in music is not always found in perfection of notes and technical capabilities.

JG: It’s a real unfortunate thing in classical music, a real obedience to the ideal of technical perfection, and you know, folk music doesn’t have that, and also modern visual art has totally abandoned that view point. And so we consider it great that Jackson Pollock can drip paint on the canvas, but on the other hand a modern classical performer has to be so exact, and nail every note or whatever. It’s a real problem. I also approach this topic from my own point of view. I am an improviser, and in my music I have my own quirky technique and I feel that if not everything is perfectly technically attuned, it is okay, it is really part of the music. It’s kind of like in an Ikat weaving where not everything is 100% lined up in the pattern, but that is part of the essence of its beauty.

VC: There is a vein in classical music where music is overly notated and controlled but when it comes down to it, 99 percent of the listener isn’t paying attention to whether or not you nailed that quintuplet over a span of 11 sixteenth note beats. Your goal as the performer is to make music, not play like a machine, even though it is quite impressive when one can see this happen. I’m not saying it isn’t important but rather that it is a combination of technical accuracy with the ability to tell a story and create a world within a sound. The most successful artists refine their technique so they can express themselves without any hesitation. These small conquerings are very personal and when you get it right, it’s very rewarding.

JG: What about the philosophy or concepts behind the music, do you get very involved in that?

VC: Yes and no. It depends on the piece and the story, but it is definitely important to know where a piece of music is coming from and why it was written. It helps you understand the mood and sensibility and spirit of the music.

JG: What is it like to play Morton Feldman?

VC: It is very meditative. It is beautiful. I get the same feeling with John Cage as well. Feldman and Cage allows you to stop and listen, to really enjoy being in the space you are in and opening up your ears — that’s how I feel when I play their music. For me, it opens up a lot of possibilities and endless opportunities. I get a similar feeling when I play Philip Glass. It is probably some of the most difficult music to play because it takes so much mental focus and discipline to be still.

JG: What is the process for you to prepare a new piece for concert?

VC: It depends on every situation. There are times I spend endless sleepless nights stressing over a piece because its that difficult. I become too obsessed and I can’t sleep and that’s all I’m thinking about. And there are times where there isn’t that challenge. I’m trying to find a healthy balance. I have a repertoire that I know that I am comfortable with and then I’m adding one or two new pieces every concert, so I’m constantly adding to the program.

JG: So when you are in that obsessive space, how do you get out of it?

VC: I won’t get out of it until that performance is done. In some ways it is a negative way to approach to music, building up all that anxiety, but also, in some ways, I enjoy being in that crazy space where I can’t think of anything else but that.

JG: What is the most challenging work you’ve ever played?

VC: The most recent one is a piece by Evan Ziporyn called ‘In Bounds.’ The way I describe it is like a two-part Bach invention meets Balinese gamelan with a bit of funk. That was the last piece I was obsessed about. The syncopations are always changing at different times between the hands. Once you’ve got that, a third voice enters and then a fourth So in the end you’re playing a four- part fugue or something. I always joke to Evan that he’s gotta write less complex music. [chuckle].

(Interview condensed and edited)

Be sure to catch Vicky Chow in concert:
October 16th, 2012 — The Stone, New York, The Music of Virgil Moorefield
http://thestonenyc.com

Bang on a Can All-stars http://www.bangonacan.org
November 19-20-Vilnius and Riga
Australia November 2-7 — Sydney Opera House and Melbourne

December 4th, 2012 — Music on Main — The Cellar, Vancouver, CANADA – John Cage Sonatas and Interludes – http://musiconmain.ca/

For more information, please visit
http://www.vickychow.com and listen to her perform on her SoundCloud page

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Joel Garten in Concert, October 10, 2012 at Gallery 345, Toronto

I will be playing a concert of my improvisations on October 10 2012 at Gallery 345.  As many people know, Gallery 345 is rapidly becoming known in the Toronto new music scene as a place where people come to really listen, and to hear what is new out there.

I will be playing about an hour of improvisations on the piano.  The concert is named the same as this blog “The Beauty of Life”.  This concert is the culmination of 2 decades composing music and improvising on the piano.  The search for beauty in music, as in life, continues, with passion, and with a heartfelt presence, music created with soul and with an intuitive spirit.  You can hear some recent recordings of my music here: http://joelgarten.com/listen/

I hope you can make it to this concert, I know you will enjoy it.

“The Beauty of Life” Joel Garten in Concert

October 10, 2012 at 8 pm

$20.00 / $10.00 Students/Seniors/Artists

Gallery 345
345 Sorauren Avenue , Toronto Canada
Located near Dundas and Roncesvalles Ave.
t 416.822.9781

Pianist and composer Joel Garten plays a passionate concert of his solo piano improvisations, work that is intense yet contemplative; a meeting of Keith Jarrett and Morton Feldman. At the nexus of experimental classical music and avant-jazz, Garten creates heartfelt music that marries sonorous repetitive rhythms with fluid melody and dissonance.

visit the facebook event page

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Cathedral in Astorga, Spain

Astorga is just a small town but it has a huge cathedral. Here is a photo I took of the beautifully carved front facade.

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Toronto Travel: 5 Great Summer Outings

Toronto Travel: 5 great summer outings

By Joel Garten, Originally published in the Huffington Post


When the temperature rises in Toronto, Canada during the brief summer, I love to get out and enjoy some of these off-the-beaten track outings.

 

1) Berry picking at Whittamore’s Farm
A great summer outing is to visit this farm that is set up to allow you to pick your own berries and vegetables straight from the field. It is great fun to go out into the fields and pick to your heart’s content. I particularly like picking raspberries. There are a number of different things you can pick, such as strawberries and peas. Check their website http://www.whittamoresfarm.com/ to find out what it available. Your picked produce is weighed on the way out and it is fairly inexpensive. I bought 10 lbs of green peas for only $20 and left very happy. Note that they don’t weigh you, so you might take a few nibbles as you pick, despite the big signs at the cashier that proclaim No Eating! With all the different nationalities of people who come to pick it is a veritable United Nations of berry picking.

Tips for picking raspberries: you know a raspberry is ripe when it is a reddish color and comes off in your hand when you pick it.  If you have to pull too hard to get it off the plant, it is not ripe.  Another tip is to avoid the very dark red ones, they are over-ripe and can end up a mushy mess in your picking box.  They offer picking boxes for sale for only $1 at the farm, and a rope to tie the box around your stomach to keep both hands free for picking.

2) The Guild and Scarborough Bluffs
Scarborough is not known for its beauty as a city – it is mainly a suburban agglomeration east of downtown – but it has an astoundingly beautiful coastline on Lake Ontario called the Scarbourough Bluffs. The high sandy peaks that lead down into the blue waters of Lake Ontario are remnants of a much larger lake that existed during the glacial periods. One of the nicest places to see the bluffs is at the Guild Park, also known as Guildwood Park. Here there is an added bonus, as the park is home to a great collection of architectural remnants – parts of 19th century buildings that were relocated to the park from downtown Toronto. Most of the architectural remnants reached the park in the 1970s when numerous beautiful bank buildings in downtown Toronto were demolished. In the park you can wander around Greek-revival marble columns and arches and carved reliefs, among many other architectural features. A forested path leads to the bluffs where you can take in great views of the water.

 

3) Sugar Beach
One of Toronto’s newer parks, Sugar Beach, is east of the main waterfront area in downtown. It is next to the Redpath Sugar factory, and the design plays off this delightful association. Pink umbrellas and white beach chairs sit on an artificial beach of light pink sand overlooking Lake Ontario. It is a fun design, and you can also walk along a boardwalk to another little park called Lower Sherbourne Commons with its artificial river. A very relaxing, enjoyable place to spend a couple of hours.

4) Kayaking Lake Ontario
Another beautiful, relaxing outing is to go kayaking in Toronto’s harbour. You can rent a kayak or canoe at Paddle Toronto http://www.paddletoronto.com/ . You can rent a single or double kayak, which I prefer over the canoe – they are easier to steer and don’t take much (if any) previous skill. With the canoes you have to know what you are doing or take a lesson.  It’s great to take an outing into the Toronto Islands and see a spectacular view of the city skyline.  It can be a bit pricey, but you can buy a book of stamps to use for several outings at a reduced rate.

5) The Leslie Street Spit
The Leslie Street Spit is in the far east side of Toronto’s waterfront. It is an idyllic point of land jutting out into lake Ontario, and the long road along the spit is a favorite for rollerbladers, walkers and cyclists. It is beautiful, with wildflowers, trees and ample wildlife, including many varieties of bird, cute little bunny rabbits and even a small colony of coyotes (rarely seen, and no danger to the average visitor!). Such a pastoral natural setting against the blue of the lake is a dreamy outing from the city. Most of the land is actually created through landfill, and dumping of cleanfill along the spit still occurs, growing the size of the spit every year. Along the spit you can enjoy views of downtown Toronto and the harbour. 

This article was originally published on Joel Garten’s blog: The Beauty of Life.

Be sure to check out Joel’s travel tips for Venice and Florence!

Follow Joel Garten on Twitter: www.twitter.com/joelgarten

 

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The Scoop on Europe’s Ridiculously Cheap Airline, Ryanair

by Joel Garten
originally published in the Huffington Post 

If you want to travel from city to city in Europe on the cheap, you should turn to Ryanair, Europe’s quirky yet ridiculously inexpensive airline.

Europe’s Schengen agreement has gotten rid of customs at the border, and with this ease of travel has come a number of low cost airlines.  Ryanair is the most popular, in fact it is one of the largest airlines in the world based on number of international travelers.  The airfare rates are often seriously reduced.  For example, a recent search showed a one-way fare from Santander, Spain to Pisa, Italy to be €12. But one shouldn’t confuse it with a normal discount airline you would find in North America.  There are numerous quirks.

First off, everything is done on the cheap on Ryanair.  That begins with the logo, which looks like they spent ten minutes and ten dollars creating it.  Before boarding, you must check in online and print out your boarding pass on an 8.5 x 11 inch piece of paper.  If you don’t, they will charge you €60 to print your boarding pass.  I know, ridiculous!  If you are traveling while you make your booking, make sure you have access to a printer to print out your boarding pass.

Ryanair is often fastidious about baggage.  They allow only one – and they mean one – piece of carry on baggage, including any purse, laptop bag, etc.  And they can be pretty tough about ensuring your carry on luggage can fit into their size requirements.  This can be a real hassle, as I learned on my first Ryanair flight when I had two bags (not knowing the rule) and was charged €60 to gate check the bag.  All  checked luggage (that you pay for in advance when you check in online) costs €15 or more, and extra fees apply  for additional luggage over one piece.  At different airports they can more or less fastidious about their carry-on rules (some even allow you to take an extra bag of duty free), but it’s worthwhile planning ahead so you don’t get hit with extra fees.

Another quirk is that they do not have assigned seats, so you must line up in advance of the opening of the gate to boarding to get a seat. When they allow you on board, everyone scrambles on to the plane like a herd of sheep and tries to get whatever seat they want.  I would suggest that to make the whole thing more pleasant, you should upgrade to priority seating for only €5, or buy an assigned seat in one of the first two rows for €10.  It is well worth it.

Other quirks include lack of seatback magazine compartments – they hand you a booklet of in-flight reading.  This must really cut down on airplane clean up times and lower their turnaround times.  In fact, they claim to have the best on time record of any airline in Europe.

Other little quirks abound: The bulkheads are plastered with advertising; they have no in-flight entertainment; they constantly try to up sell you on their website and in the flight.

And be warned, while the fares are cheap, there are little extras that can bump up the cost of the fare, such as a €6 administration fee on all filghts, the cost of in-flight meals, etc.

Another big consideration is that they occasionally fly to airports that are nearby major destinations, such as the Milan airport, which is actually in the nearby town of Bergamo; or the Paris airport, which is really in the city of Beauvais more than an hour away.  If flying with Ryanair, make sure you know which airport you are flying into.  In my experience, even though they fly into secondary airports, the secondary airports are well equipped to get you to the major city you intend to travel to.  For example, when I flew into the Charleroi airport, they had half hourly buses for an inexpensive fare to get me into the center of Brussels, Belgium.  Another handy airport is the Pisa, Italy airport, from which I took an hour long bus ride to get to the center of Florence.

Another major quirk is that Ryanair doesn’t have its fares published on the popular airfare search engine www.kayak.com.  That means when searching for cheap airfares on Kayak, the cheapest option – which is often Ryanair – doesn’t show up.  You can search their fares on their website www.Ryanair.com or you can use the discount airfare search engine www.edreams.com.  Also note that Ryanair is not a connecting airline and takes no responsibility for missed connections or checking through baggage to other airlines.

All in all, it is a quirky but very inexpensive airline, and the leg room is not that bad at all considering how cheap the fares can be.

Other super discount airlines in Europe include the delightfully named Wizz Air which serves eastern European destinations, and Air Europa, which functions more or less like a regular airline.

Potentially the best thing from Ryanair, in fact, is its hotel search engine, which can offer deeply discounted rates in many cities, and can be found at  www.RyanairHotels.com .

Happy Flying!

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Ten Tips for a Happy Trip to Venice, Italy

This article I wrote on Venice Travel was just published in the Huffington Post

Ten Tips for a Happy Trip to Venice, Italy
By Joel Garten

Venice is one of the most beautiful cities of Europe. Wandering down narrow, crumbling streets lined by canals, you can watch as gondolas silently slide by in the teal colored water, marvel at ornate churches and view a huge trove of masterpieces by Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo.  Here are some tips to help you enjoy your trip to Venice.

photo by Joel Garten

 

1) Take the vaporetto!

You might be surprised to find out that the main island of Venice has no cars or motorcycles. There are simply too many canals and narrow winding streets for them to be of any use. That means the best way to get around is the vaporetto, which is the Venetian water bus. A system of boats, the vaporetto is by far the easiest way to get around the city and a great way to see the beautiful palazzos lining the Grand Canal. A ride on the vaporetto is one of the greatest attractions of the city and is quite easy to figure out how to use.
The main line is #1 and it goes up and down the Grand Canal and ends in the Lido (another island that has a beach). Each ride of the vaporetto costs 7, but you can buy the TRAVELCARD, which is available in timed tickets (from 12 hours to 7 days) that offer unlimited travel. I recommend you get the TRAVELCARD for however long you plan to be in the city. Though a bit pricey, the ease and freedom of going on the vaporetto whenever you like is a great boon to travel.   You don’t think twice about taking it only one stop, and you can also take it simply for the sightseeing on the boat, which is great if you snag a seat at the front or stand along the sides of the boat.
Be sure to pick up a map of the vaporetto system, which is available at the main tourist info spot in front of the main train station. You can also print one out here. Line #1 runs every ten minutes until evening and less frequently until midnight. There is also a line #2 that goes up and down the Grand Canal and functions like an express bus, stopping at fewer stops.
Some vaporetto docks go in both directions; some stops have separate docks for each direction. Each dock has a sign showing which lines are served by that dock and in which direction. After you use it a couple times it is pretty self-explanatory.

You can buy a TRAVELCARD card here at the Venice Connected site, along with many other types of discount cards, including WIFI passes and parking passes.

The Rialto Bridge seen from the vaporetto. Photo by Joel Garten

 

View from the vaporetto boat. Photo by Joel Garten

 

2) Get the Museum Pass

A great way to save money (and occasionally time, as it allows you to cut entrance lines) is the Museum Pass. It allows a single visit to 11 museums in Venice, including the Correr Museum, with its fabulous painting collection, and the Doge’s palace, with its enormous reception halls. The card is available at any of the participating museums for 20.
http://www.visitmuve.it/en/museums/

The Doge’s Palace. Photo by Joel Garten

 

3) Get The Chorus Card
Another card that is a great value is the Chorus Card, which allows free access to 15 churches, and includes a handy map of most of the churches and sights of Venice. The card is available at any participating church and costs just €10. Note that it does not cover every church in Venice – some are free, and some have their own separate entry fee.

4) Bring a GPS
Venice is an extremely confusing tangle of narrow streets, winding canals and small bridges which can leave you baffled and lost.  I recommend bringing a GPS, which is a real help and can make getting from point to point a breeze.
Many people now have GPS on their cell phones. This is one option, but make sure to find out if your cell phone GPS uses data to fix a position or download maps. If so, find out how much that data will cost while roaming in Italy. Beware! The data may add up to hundreds of dollars if you are unaware.
Another option is to use an automotive GPS which you may have for use in your car. This has its limitations as well, as many automotive GPS units have a very short battery life, which can leave you stranded an hour into your trip. Check the specifications of your unit to see how long the battery will last, and set it to ‘pedestrian’ setting. Of course, also make sure you have maps of Venice on your device.
The solution that I rely on is to use a handheld GPS unit. The device I use is the Garmin GPSMAP 62, but there are other similar devices on the market. It has a nearly 24-hour battery life, it is reasonably easy to use, and I downloaded a map of Venice off the Garmin website for only $10 (see the ‘in the city’ section of their map site). I was able to navigate the streets of Venice easily – including looking up nearby locations such as an ATM – though the maps do not contain the vaporetto stop locations. A problem with the device I use is there is no touch screen or keyboard, so it can take a while to input addresses or scan around the map using the buttons.

GPSMAP 62 from Garmin. Photo from Garmin.com

 

5) Stroll Piazza San Marco in the evening

The Piazza San Marco (or St. Mark’s Square) is one of the most beautiful sights in Venice. Unfortunately, it can be clogged with tourists during the day. I love to visit San Marco in the evening, around sunset, when many tourists have left and the dark blue of the sky is set against the sloping rays of light of the sun illuminating the pinks of the bricks of the Doge’s palace. It is a great time, as well, to walk along the waterfront out of the heat of the day.
A couple of time saving tips: leaving the square and turning left (when facing the water) you can find a water fountain behind some benches where you can refill your water bottles for free. If you keep going in the same direction along the path along the water, you will find a public WC open until 9 pm (which can be a real life saver!).

 

San Marco at Evening. Photo by Joel Garten

6) Save on Lunch
Food in Venice, as in the rest of Italy, can be very expensive. Rather than eating in a restaurant, I highly prefer going to a local supermarket and stocking up on some prosciutto, parmesan, arugula and chocolate and having a mini picnic (I also lost a lot of weight on this diet, but that is the subject for another article!). This tactic can save you quite a lot of money and time. It can be tricky to find a supermarket in Venice, but two chains that have several locations are called Billa and Coop.

7) See 18th-century Venice
By far my favorite museum is the Ca Rezzonico, the museum of the 1700s in Venice. It is housed in an extraordinary palazzo along the Grand Canal, with room after room of frescoed ceilings, many by Tiepolo, filled with decorative art treasures, many in a thrilling Rococo style.
Nearby is the tiny but very charming Casa Goldoni, included in the Museum Pass. It is a restored mini palazzo with a beautiful courtyard.  Upstairs, three rooms made up to look like a party in the 1700s had just taken place.  It’s very cutely done.

8) Start with a dose of Baroque when you arrive
If you arrive in Venice by train, very close to the train station is the Santa Maria di Nazareth Church or Church of the Scalzi, an amazing Baroque church that is a great jumping off point to visit when you first arrive.

9) Take the boat to and from the airport
If you are staying on the main island of Venice, a great option for getting to and from the airport is to take an airport boat. These are operated separately from the vaporetto (which does not go to the airport) by a company called Alilaguna. They operate on their own schedule, with spiffy water buses that take about half an hour from the city to the airport. The cost is about 15 per person, and tickets can be bought on the boat or in advance at the main tourist office. Note that the stop is a five to ten minute walk from the airport, and the Alilgauna service stops at only some of the vaporetto stops, using the same docks. Click here to get more info. A private water taxi, on the other hand, can be very expensive.

10)  Avoid the sun and the summer heat
During the summer the heat can be unbearable, and just a few minutes in the sun can leave you sweaty and wilted. I highly recommend, if you are in town during the summer, to take it easy and stay out of direct sun as much as possible during the time between 11 AM and 5 PM. You can walk around some shaded side canals, go to a museum or simply hang out at your hotel for a couple of hours. Being out in the intense sun and humidity in the middle of the day can leave you drained and make it hard to enjoy the rest of your trip. So feel free to take a siesta to get the most out of your trip.

Bonus Tip:
Hotels in Venice can be very expensive and heavily booked up. To get the most out of your trip, try to stay on the main island (either side of the Grand Canal), rather than on the Lido, which is not nearly as beautiful. One website that can be of help finding a place to stay is www.Ryanairhotels.com – the hotel search engine of the Ryanair airline. It is an excellent website that looks through multiple booking engines and can find great deals. Another website I found useful is www.booking.com.  Make sure to try a few different hotel websites, as not all of them show every availability.

Enjoy your trip to Venice!

* If you have questions about travel in Venice or in Europe, contact Joel Garten through Twitter www.twitter.com/@joelgarten or comment below.

Be sure to check out Joel Garten’s 10 Tips for Travel to Florence as well!

 

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10 Tips for Travelling to Florence, Italy

This article I wrote on Florence Travel was just published in the Huffington Post

10 Tips for Travel in Florence, Italy
By Joel Garten

Florence is a beautiful, ancient city in Italy’s Tuscany region. Walking among buildings and churches that are hundreds of years old, you can encounter an enormous wealth of Renaissance art, from Botticelli to Donatello to Michelangelo.
I recently spent a week in this graceful city, taking in the architectural and artistic treasures. Here are a few tips to help you enjoy a trip to Florence:

1) Take it slow, don’t rush from site to site.

There is an overwhelming number of things to see – churches, museums, gardens and monuments.
The real key to enjoying Florence is not to get overwhelmed, but rather to take it slow, to develop something like a leisurely stroll through the city. Fortunately, everything is concentrated into a very compact central area, so it is easy to go from one site to another. So go slow, don’t rush from one place to another, take time to take in the architecture and atmosphere. For example, in the Palazzo Pitti, spend time  absorbing the beauty of the palace itself, rather than looking at each one of the hundreds of paintings stacked from floor to ceiling.

It is far better to wander around strolling through town from place to place, taking in the beauty and grace, looking at the charm of churches and palaces and gardens, stopping to admire a masterwork here and there. If you don’t have time to see everything, it is better to miss a few things and to truly enjoy yourself.

2) Uffizi card

One of the best deals in the city is the Amici degli Uffizi card. You can buy the card in the Uffizi Gallery. (Ask at the museum where you can buy it so you don’t have to wait in line.) The card costs  €60 per person, less for families and students. It allows free and unlimited access to five State museums in Florence and it is valid to the end of the calendar year. Best of all, it allows you to cut the at times huge lines for the Uffizi (home to Botticelli’s Birth of Venus) and the Accademia (home to Michelangelo’s David). With the card you can go straight into the shorter lines for those with reservations. With the power of free admission and shorter wait times, you can enjoy the relaxed stroll I recommend, dipping into the Uffizi to see a few paintings here or there, stopping in at the Bargello Museum to see a couple of Donatellos, then wandering down to the Boboli Gardens for a relaxing time looking at the view over the city from a park bench.
The Uffizi card is best if you are spending a few days in the city, as it allows multiple entries to the museums, so you can return a couple of times to the Uffizi Gallery, for example. Taking in the whole Uffizi at once is a lot, as there are so many paintings, so being able to return a couple of times is a great plus. Another benefit is being able visit the Boboli Gardens several times, which is a refreshingly wonderful thing to do.
If you are only staying a day or two in the city, it might be a better deal to get the Firenze card ( €50 ) which allows only one entry to each museum over a 72-hour period, but covers a much greater variety of sights (up to 50 at last count, as well as use of the public transit system).

3) The Baptistery

The Duomo, along with the bell tower next to it and the baptistery right in front of it, are together some of the most beautiful buildings in Europe. While there is a lot of emphasis put on the Duomo, there is not a lot of attention paid to the Baptistery, which is a shame, as it has an incredibly beautiful interior. Its entire huge ceiling is covered in dazzling mosaics that date from the 1200s.
The entrance to the Baptistery is by one of its side doors, but first you need to buy a ticket. The ticket office is located in a building across the road to the right of the Baptistery, if you are looking with your back to the Duomo. (There is also a handy WC in the ticket office building.)
One of the nicest things about the Baptistery is that three nights a week it is open in the evening, until 10:30 pm, even though this is not advertised anywhere. During the evening opening hours you can buy a ticket directly at the side door. The Baptistery is beautiful and quiet in the evening and you get a very clear view of the mosaics without glare from the windows.


4) The Boboli Gardens

The Boboli Gardens are classical Italian gardens, with statuary, manicured lawns and topiary. They are a quiet and beautiful retreat, and a short walk up the main walkway leads to a romantic panorama across the city. The Gardens are located in the Pitti Palace complex, which is a quick walk across the river Arno from the Duomo. The walk from the Duomo passes over the beautiful Ponte Vecchio, an ancient bridge over the Arno River lined with jewellery shops.


5) Visit a couple of house museums


There are two beautiful house museums near the centre of town, the Bardini Museum and the Horne Museum.
The Bardini Museum (not to be confused with the Bardini Villa) is a collection put together in the 19th century by an art dealer and preserves a wide assortment of paintings, sculptures and decorative arts from the Renaissance. It is housed in a beautiful palazzo and each room is painted a different shade of blue.
The Horne Museum is another house museum, decorated to replicate the look of a Renaissance palazzo and has a rich collection of paintings and decorative arts. It is very atmospheric and it is worthwhile spending some time just taking in the beauty of each room.

 


6) Palazzo Vecchio


The Palazzo Vecchio is Florence’s original town hall and is replete with gilded ceilings and art treasures. There are room after room of frescoes and gilding, including a room with Bronzino frescoes.
One of the great things about the Palazzo Vecchio is that it is open everyday until midnight and in the evening there are few visitors so you can have the place to yourself.
The Palazzo Vecchio also has a number of innovative tours offered including a tour of secret passages. These tours must be booked in advance.

7) The Duomo


You should absolutely spend time enjoying the exterior of the Duomo, it is dreamily beautiful. During my trip, I enjoyed looking at it many times a day. It is especially beautiful around sunset when it is illuminated against a deep blue sky.
During the morning there can be incredibly long lines to enter the Duomo. The best way to avoid these lines is to visit in the afternoon. Nevertheless, in general the interior is not as beautiful as the exterior, though it does have an impressively frescoed dome and intricate floor mosaics in marble. If you are cramped for time, you might decide to skip going inside the Duomo and go to the churches I recommend below.
Note that at the Duomo, as well as all Florentine churches, you are officially required to wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees, though I never had problems wearing standard men’s shorts that didn’t cover my knees. The guards at the door can sometimes be picky though, especially for women wearing hot pants.


8 ) Churches to visit: Santa Maria Novella and Santissima Annunziata


There are many churches in Florence, and many of the smaller ones you might come across wandering through the city you can enter without any admission fee. If the front door is open, it usually means the church is open, though there is often a second set of doors just inside the outer doors that are usually closed. Feel free to open the second of doors and go in and look around. If there is a mass going on, though, it is best to limit your visit to a quick (and silent) peak.
Two of my favourite churches are the Santa Maria Novella Church and the Santissima (SS) Annunziata Church.
The Santa Maria Novella Church is close to the main train station (and in fact the station is named after it). It has a beautiful exterior, clad in marble, though not as stunning as the Duomo. The interior is what really shines at this church. It is a huge open space, with chapels graced by beautiful frescoes.
The SS Annunziata Church is located in a beautiful arcaded square. It is an enormous church with coloured marble columns and gilded ceilings and over-the-top Baroque side chapels.

 


9) Download a schedule and plan for Mondays

There is a very handy schedule that shows all of the major museums and sights in Florence and their opening and closing times. You can download it for free on the Florence Tourism website at this link : click on “Main Museums and Monuments of Florence: Opening Times” to download it.

You should know that the Uffizi Gallery and most of the Pitti Palace are closed on Mondays, along with some other sites, so it is best to plan ahead if you will be in Florence on a Monday. On the other hand, the Museum of the Orsanmichele Church is only open on Mondays. The church was formerly a granary, and the museum, on the upper floors of the church, has extremely high ceilings and is home to a collection of Renaissance statues that once lined the outside of the building.

10) Save on lunch

Food in Florence, as in much of Italy, can be very expensive. Rather than having a meal at a restaurant, I recommend buying some snacks – such as some prosciutto, arugula and parmesan – and enjoying a mini picnic, as a way to save some money. There are several small grocery chains in the city, one of which is called Conad.

 

Bonus tip
You can visit Florence’s smallest museum, the Bigallo, through the tourist information office across from the Duomo. It comprises two tiny rooms filled with paintings and frescoes. Access is granted once per hour during the day.

 

Enjoy your trip to Florence!

 

 

This article was originally published on Joel Garten’s blog: The Beauty of Life.  You can also find it published on the Huffington Post: Joel Garten’s 10 Tips for Travel to Florence, Italy

If you have questions about travel in Florence or in Europe, contact Joel Garten through Twitter www.twitter.com/@joelgarten or comment below.

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View of Budapest across the Danube

I took this photo of Budapest around sunset, the sun illuminating this beautiful city.  The Danube river is the heart of the Budapest, the liquid highway that brought it wealth and a cosompolitan connection to the outside world.  It also linked the city with Vienna, which Hungary was soldered at the hip to during the reign of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Hungary was not a great nation that created impressive monuments or extensive landholdings.  Rather it was a nation that had an intense wealth of folk culture, demonstrated in a kaleidoscopic range of folk costumes and handicrafts, strange pentatonal songs and a zest for the countryside.

The true shining accomplishment of the Hungarians reached its apogee in the creation of much of modern physics and mathematics in the 20th century.

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Painting of Paintings

This is a close up detail of a photo I took of a painting in the Musee des Beaux Arts, Brussels Belgium.

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Architecture, Brussels, Belgium

Across the street from where I stayed in Brussels was this very modern addtion to quite an old building.

The view from my window!  I had a roof view.

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Edward’s Gardens, Toronto

beautiful overview of the park.  They have gardening and horticulture classes at this park.

Giant banana

It takes a lot of flowers to do this type of planting.

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Vivian Reiss painting the sheep

Vivian Reiss is well known for her series of paintings of sheep.  Here she is painting sheep on a farm near Roseneath, Ontario.

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Church in Ghent, Belgium

A beautiful church in Ghent, Belgium. I loved walking around this church, it had a very light airy feeling, which I found in churches in Belgium and Netherlands, as they like to paint the interiors white.

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Geertgen tot Sint Jans, “The Glorification of the Virgin”

I was fascinated by this painting I saw in the Boijmans museum in Rotterdam.  It has a little virgin and child surrounded by a cloud of symbols and angels in gold.

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Soul Train – funky dance explosion!



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Night time in Bruges, Belgium

Bruges is an extremely beautiful and ancient city of canals, churches and houses.  Walking along the canals at night is extremely peaceful and beautiful.

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Michaelina Wautier, Portrait of A Man

A beautiful portrait from the Brussels Musee des Beaux Arts.  Excellent choice of frame as well.

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Antwerp Train Station

Here is the beautiful Antwerp train station

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Beautiful Park “Jardin du Mont Des Arts”, Brussels, Belgium

This park called Jardin du Mont Des Arts in French is located where the hill where the royal castle is built descends into the old town.  It is a beautifully landscaped park, and the flute player looks a lot like some of the flemish portraits in the Musee.

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Caritas (“Charity”), by Lucas Cranach the Younger,

This was one of my favorite paintings from the Musee de Beaux Arts in Brussels, Belgium, a museum filled with great masterpieces.  I looked at this for a long time, and it charm only increased.

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1600 year old olive tree, Greece

This tree is at the ancient Greek and Roman site of Gortys/Gortyna, on the island of Crete.  This tree started growing 1600 years ago, which coincided with an earthquake which hit the site.  A Byzantine church was destroyed in the earthquake, and the tree began growing around a column from the church, which is now embedded in the trunk.  The site was filled with trees like these, with extremely knotted trunks.  This tree is across the road from the main site, where vast fields are filled with rubble from unexcavated buildings dating from more than 2000 years ago.

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Monastery in Greece

This is a monestary I visited in Greece.

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The Best is Yet To Come!!!!

Frank Sinatra sings the Best Is Yet To Come

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Vivian Reiss: Sheep Painting

Vivian Reiss has completed a large series of paintings of sheep in a farm outside Toronto.  The works have extremely inventive compositions.  Sheep stare directly out of the canvas, while other sheep stand in a the barnyard architecture with their backs to us, while other sheep haunches edge out of the side of the painting.  Fasniating and unusual use of of composition and color.

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Sketch for Bonheur De Vivre

Here is a sketch for the Bonheur De Vivre by Matisse.  I have previously posted the final painting.  I love this sketch, beacuse it is a more abstracted version of the final painting.

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New World Center, Miami Florida

Here i am wamdering around the landscaping outside the New World Center, the symphony hall designed by Frank Gehry in Miami, Florida.

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Snub Nosed Monkey

 

This is a baby golden snub nosed monkey from China.  National Geographic had a photo essay on them this month.

They live in very cold conditions.  One type of snub nosed monkey sneezes when it gets rain on its nose, so it spends rainy days with its head between its knees.

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Bonnard at the Norton Museum of Art

A huge, unfinished painting by Bonnard.

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Dan Flavin at the Norton Museum of Art

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Richard Diebenkorn at Norton Museum of Art

At the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach there are two very beautiful, small Diebenkorns that transfixed me.

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Wading

Here I am wading in the water in the US Virgin Islands.  Its such a dreamy image.

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Go Ask Alice

This song was in my dream last night.  Not sure what it means yet. By Jefferson Airplane

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Gold and Silver Moth

This beautiful moth was found on the kitchen counter where I am in the US Virgin Islands. It has both gold and silver on its wings. A precious metal moth! BK9W6TNBSG7E

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Beautiful view

This is a beautiful view from the top of a mountain in USVI

copyright joel garten USVI

It looks like fairy tale land!

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Wild Orchid

On the way down to the beach in St. John, US Virgin Islands, I found these beautiful wild orchids

here is another beautiful orchid from USVI

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Underwater photos

copyright joel garten 2011

I went snorkling in the US Virgin Isles with an underwater camera, here are some beautiful photos I took of the sky taken from underwater.  enjoy!

copyright joel garten 2011

copyright joel garten 2011

copyright joel garten 2011

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Hermit Crab

I am in the US Virgin Islands having a great time.  Today on the beach I found a hermit crab living in an abandoned snail shell.  It was very cute, and shy at first, but pretty soon it was out of its shell and crawling around.

It has one large claw and one small claw.  And it sometimes bites!  I saw a guy in town with one on his necklace. he must feed it everyday.

Here is a fascinitaing fact about hermit crabs I found on wikipedia:

Several hermit crab species, both terrestrial and marine, use “vacancy chains” to find new shells: when a new, bigger shell becomes available, hermit crabs gather around it and form a kind of queue from largest to smallest. When the largest crab moves into the new shell, the second biggest crab moves into the newly vacated shell, thereby making its previous shell available to the third crab, and so on.

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Bruce Cockburn: Wondering where the Lions Are

Great song by Bruce Cockburn.  I keep having scary dreams about a problem I’m having, but last night I had a good dream where my problems were all solved -not perfectly, but good enough - and I could move on in happiness.  It reminded me of the lyric “had another dream about the lions at the door,  they weren’t half as frightening they were before”

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Gardiner Museum, Toronto

Here are some beautiful things from the Mesoamerican collection at the Gardiner Museum, Toronto.  I was there last week.

Serpent bowl from Panama 800-1200 AD

Crab bowl from Panama 800-1200 AD

polychrome bowl with hieroglyphic writing and a God in the centre. Guatemala 550-950 AD

Dancing spider monkey vase, Belize or Guatemala  AD 550-850

Veracruz standing dancer, from Veracruz Mexico.

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Quite Interesting: The British Quiz Show!

QI is  fun british quiz show featuring Stephen Fry.  The questions are so difficult that they dont expect the panel to know the answers, so points are awarded based on how interesting the answers are.  Points are deducted, and alarms go off when an answer given is obvious but wrong.  You can watch a lot more episodes on Youtube, including the last two parts of this episodes.

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Liberale da Verona: Scene from a Novella

Another beautiful painting I saw from my last trip to the Metropolitan Museum.  This painting is by Liberale da Verona entitled Scene from a Novella and was painted in Siena between 1467 and 1476.  It is a rare secular painting from the Italian renaissance, as such a huge proportion of paintings were of the life of Christ, with portraiture a distant second.  The painting depicts a scene from a now-lost novel about two lovers.  There is a matching panel in which the two lovers are playing chess.

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Bobo Stenson: In The Forest

Bobo Stenson is a terrific jazz pianist and composer.  My childhood nickname was Bobo, so I particularly like him.  Here he performs a concert in a forest, which is a great accomplishment of logisitics and a beautiful conceit.  The first piece is his composition.  You can see the whole concert on youtube.

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Don’t You Worry bout a ting

Here is a beautiful song by Bob Marley on the same subject as  Don’t Worry Be Happy! by Bobby Mcferrin.  Dont you worry bout a thing!  Enjoy!

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Bramantino: Madonna and Child

During my recent trip to the Metropolitan Museum, I was transfixed by this beautiful painting by Bramantino (Bartolomeo Suardi).  It really deserves much greater fame.  It is an unusually peaceful serene composition.  The Madonna holds an apple, with Latin name malus, for it represents Adam and Eve’s original sin.  She holds it away from the baby Jesus.  On the right, there is a potted dianthus or carnation, which smell like cloves.  It is a symbol for the Virgin Mary.  The curvature of the Madonna’s arms creates a swirling impression and the baby Jesus’ arms mimic this movement. 

It also has a really beautifully carved frame.

bramantino

bramantino Madonna and Child

bramantino

 

 

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Donato De’ Bardi

I just returned from a trip to the Metropolitan Museum and I am going to post some things I saw.  What a beautiful museum.  Here is the right panel of a triptych by Donato De’ Bardi.  It is so beautiful and serene.  Everyone should have  a miniature sheep as a pet.  The beautifully sculptural folds of cloth were a major preoccupation of the rennaissance.

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Piet Mondrian: Dune in Zeeland

Early in Piet Mondrian’s career, before he developed his famous style, he went to Zeeland in the Netherlands and painted a series of paintings of sand dunes.  These paintings were a landmark in his development as an artist, and where he began to develop his understanding of line, geometry and color.

These paintings have been on my mind and have been a great inspiration to me.  Thank you Mondrian.

This painting is in the Guggenheim Museum and dates to 1910.

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7 new piano improvisation compositions by Joel Garten posted online

visit my myspace page at http://www.myspace.com/joelgarten to hear 7 of my new compositions I just recorded yesterday!  They are the first seven peices on the myspace playlist.   They are all solo piano improvisations.  Enjoy!

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Don’t Worry Be Happy! by Bobby Mcferrin

I`ve been through some really tough, anxious times recently.  This song can really brighten your mood in these hard times.  it comes with much love.  Joel

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Vivian Reiss painting huge new garden painting

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Front Chard

Vivian Reiss’ front yard is filled with swiss chard, so she calls is her front chard.  Beautiful rainbow colors!

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Monkey Cup

A fun monkey cup in terracotta.  It dates to  the mid-6th century B.C.. It comes from East Greece or Cyprus.

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Cruisin’ by Smokey Robinson

A beautiful song sung by Smokey Robinson

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Islamic Calligraphy

I love Islamic calligraphy.  The shape and flow of the letters is so beautiful.

Islamic art did not feature large scale painting, so other arts, such as bookbinding, calligraphy and miniature painting became very prominent.

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Phnom Da style sculpture

This sculpture is in the magnificent Phnom Da style of Cambodia and dates to around the 6th c. AD.  There are very few examples of this style of art, which remarkably displays influence from ancient Greek art.  I saw a few examples in the National Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.  This particular piece comes from the Cleveland Museum of Art.  Look at the beautiful sculptural curvature of the body.

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New Solo Piano Improvisation posted online

I recorded a few new pieces today and I have posted one of them on my mysapce page.  It is a solo piano improvisation.  I hope you enjoy.  To listen, please go to:  www.myspace.com/joelgarten

It is the first piece in the lineup.

Hope you enjoy!

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Ram in a Thicket from the British Museum

This is a spectacular sculpture that I remember as one of the highlights of the British Museum in London.  The British Museum is a huge storehouse of treasures from around the world, including the Rosetta Stone, the engraved stone with inscriptions in three languages that allowed Egyptian hieroglyphics to be deciphered.

This sculpture comes from the Mesopotamian site of Ur, which is in Iraq.  A pair of these sculptures were found in the same area by the archaeologist Sir Leonard Woolley.  It is made of gold, shell and the beautiful blue semi-precious stone Lapis Lazuli, one of my favorite minerals.  It dates to 2400-2600 BC.  This is a great masterpiece of Mesopotamian art.

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Sergei Prokofiev

Prokofiev is one of my favorite composers, and was a master orchestrator.  Unfortunately, his creativity was cramped but the repressive Soviet regime.  He has created many great pieces, ballets and operas. Here are three movements of a piano concerto he wrote. To make it even more exciting, play all three at the same time! (This is what the composer Charles Ives would have recommended!)


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Third Impromptu Concert a Great Success!

images from my concert of solo piano improvisations

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Maybe I’m Amazed by Paul McCartney

Maybe I’m Amazed by Paul McCartney

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Upcoming Concert: August 25 2010

I will be playing a solo concert of my piano improvisations on August 25 2010 at 8pm.  This is a casual concert by invitation.  If you would like to come and havent received an invitation, please email me at contact@Joelgarten.com

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Bonheur de Vivre by Matisse

This is one of Matisse’s great masterpieces painted 1905-1906, a huge canvas with a lot going on. It resides in the Barnes Foundation.  Barnes was a great collector of Matisse and many other French painters.

The energy in this painting is intense at the same time as being slightly euphoric and transformational.  The painting has so many elements in it, I see ice age cave paintings in the gazelles at the right, and it looks like Kandinsky in the area at the top middle of the painting.  The composition is intriguing with a ramp like feature ascending from the bottom of the painting.  The dancing figures seem to be sending energy to the sky. This painting is the future.

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Toronto’s new Sugar Beach park

Toronto’s newest beach is the sweetly named Sugar Beach, located next to the Redpath Sugar plant. It has cheerful pink beach umbrellas and white sand. The shade of pink in the umbrellas is slightly purple-y, which is quite lovely. A very relaxing inviting place to while away a few hours on the beach chairs. It is located at the foot of Jarvis on Queens Quay East.

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Joanna Newsom

Charming music video by harpist/vocalist Joanna Newsom

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Fun Pasta Sauce Commercial

Tarako is a type of Japanese pasta sauce made from spicy fish roe.  Its really delicious!  The Kewpie company makes these fun commercials with the little kewpie-beanbag charachters.  Thanks to Yurie for sending me this video.

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Photography Portraits by Mia Hanson

These portraits of me were taken by the photographer Mia Hanson, who as you can see is extremely talented.  They were taken last March at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, my favorite museum.

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Monkey Ceramics

This was a present from my mother.  It reminds me of a white ceramic monkey that Elvis had at Graceland, which coincidentally my grandmother also had in her apartment in Florida.

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Phalaenopsis orchids

I love orchids, they are such beautiful exotic flowers.  The most popular orchids for at-home growing is the phalaenopsis orchid.  They are very hardy, and the blossoms last a long time.  They require watering once a week with lukewarm water.

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Philip Guston

Philip Guston, like Richard Diebenkorn was an artist that had a career both as an abstract painter and a figurative painter, both of which were very successful.

The intent of the two phases of his career seem very different, yet it is possible to see how stylistically he morphed from one to the other.  I love how musical his abstract works are, and I love how his figurative period matches a playfulness with serious artistic accomplishment.

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Hear my music on MYSPACE

You can now hear my solo piano improvisations on my myspace page at http://www.myspace.com/joelgarten

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Beautiful Garden by Vivian Reiss

Garden by Vivian Reiss.  Website: www.vreiss.com  Blog: www.vivianreiss.com
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Golden Lion Tamarin Monkeys

These beautiful monkeys have a golden mane of fur.  They are tiny little monkeys that live in the jungle in Brazil, where they eat insects and vegetation and anything else they can scrounge like bird eggs.  There are some at the Toronto Zoo and there are some in Singapore zoo, where they are kept without a cage in a bush in the middle of the zoo.  As I was watching one it hopped out and rested on my shoe for a moment.  They live in little family units and sleep in giant bromelaids. Unfortunately they are very endangered.

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Portrait of a Lady

Clear, enchanting and personable, this portrait is by Jacometto Veneziano, dating to around 1480. 

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Second Impromptu Concert a Success!

Last night’s concert was a great success.  I played five pieces and an encore.  Above are a couple photos of me playing inside the piano. The concert was attended by two radio personalities, Jaymz Bee and Marilyn Lightstone.

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Korean Vase

This beautiful, simple vase comes from Korea and is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  Its from the late 13th Century.  It has such a simple grace to it.  The glaze is called Celadon, which is usually a greenish color, but depending on its application can be from white to grey to yellow to blue to many shades of green.

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Petrus Christus: A Goldsmith in His Shop

A great masterpiece by Petrus Christus from 1449.  There is so much going on in this painting, its hard to catalogue.  Look closely and carefully, and you can teast out a great many details, compositional tricks, and exceptional shows of technique.  A picture that keeps giving.  Thanks to Petrus Christus!

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Monkey enamel

This beautiful enamel beaker is one of the finest examples from the medieval period.  It features playful monkeys taking a peddler’s belongings and frolicking in the trees.  The monkeys are a symbol and commentary on human folly.  No matter what we do, the monkeys take the proceeds.  This beaker was once in the collection of Piero de Medici and later of J. Pierpont Morgan.  It is now in the Cloisters in New York.

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Cute photos

Which is more cute?

photos of me and a baby from a recent garden party.

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Beautiful Vietnamese Monkeys

This monkey is called the  douc langur, and it is beautiful. They are very endangered.  I’ve never been to Vietnam, but I’ve seen them in a zoo and they are very graceful, peaceful animals.

 baby one:

Here is another amazing vietnamese monkey, the Cat Ba Langur. Look how perfect its hair is!

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Upcoming Concert: July 21 2010

I will be playing a solo concert of my piano improvisations on July 21 2010 at 8pm.  This is a casual concert by invitation.  If you would like to come and havent received an invitation, please email me at contact@Joelgarten.com

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Blythe Dolls

Blythe dolls are sixties-style big eyed dolls that became popular in Japan after being promoted in an advertising campaign for the department store Parco.  When I was in Japan I had a friend who looked exactly like one of these dolls.  Here is a blog that specializes in tiny clothing for the dolls.

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Manet: Young Lady in 1866 and Mademoiselle V. . . in the Costume of an Espada

Manet: Young Lady in 1866

Manet: Young Lady in 1866

Manet painted many great paintings, many of which feature this model, named Victorine Meurent (1844–1928).  What I find most interesting about his work are his compositions.  The inclusion here of the parrot perch is essential to balancing the picture. Each element is, in its own subtle way, important to the painting’s composition.

Mademoiselle V. . . in the Costume of an Espada

Mademoiselle V. . . in the Costume of an Espada

 This painting is of the same model, this time dressed as a bullfighter.  Again each element is essential to the composition in its own subtle way.  These paintings both reside in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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Bowerbirds – the landscape architects of the natural world

National Geographic Magazine had an amazing article about bowerbirds, a small bird that lives in Australia and New Guinea.

bowerbird in its love nest. Image from NationalGeographic.com

What makes the bowerbird unique is that the males create amazing love nests decked out with found objects to woo the oposite sex.  They compile objects, including blue caterpiller feces, bits of broken CDs, plastic wrappers, leaves, and stones into decorated “avenues” that lead to a roundish enclosure, all to entice females to visit and mate with them.  The females often visit numorous times before deciding to mate with a male, chosing based on the quality of the architecture and the pizzazz of the male’s dance.

They also have a culture, in that in different areas, different design schemes are more popular, including one area where the birds prefer grey and green palates.

see more photos here

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Vermeer: Maid Asleep

Vermeer Maid Asleep

This is one of my favorite paintings by Vermeer.  There are only 36 Vermeer paintings in existance.

Maid Asleep is a dreamy painting with a composition with multiple planes.

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Viktor and Rolf

Viktor and Rolf are an innovative fashion design duo. Here is a fashion show they put together for Spring/Summer 2009 which I admire. It is a completely digital show, featuring the model Shalom Harlow, who was filmed with multiple cameras and digitally inserted into a catwalk wearing each outfit. The result is that she walks past herself on the runway numerous times. The clothing itself is very futuristic, but not star-treky. It reminds me of what people might be wearing five or ten years in the future. The first dress is a real show stopper.

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Alpacas!

Cute alpcas captured by my cell phone camera.

One of the features that humans find inherently cute is large eye size in realtion to head size.  Alpacas have very big eyes, which is part of the reason they are so cute.  Scientists conjecture that the ability to discern cuteness is an adaptation that makes us want to take care of babies, who, like alpacas, have large eye to head size ratios.

Alpacas are a domesticated form of the wild animal called the vicuña.  They, along with llamas, are related to camels (two humps) and dromedaries (one hump).  All of the existing camelid family had a common ancestor in North America, which spread to South America and Asia, but then died out in North America.  Over time, humans have domesticated the wild forms, leaving us with alpacas, llamas, and camels today.

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We Are Family

A great inspirational song.  “Our Golden Rule: have faith in you and the things you do, you wont go wrong, this is our family jewel”. 

The family jewel is faith in yourself and what you do; a concept rather than something material.

Also its fun to dance to.

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Odaiba, Tokyo

Odaiba is an island area in Tokyo Japan accessible by a monorail.  It was one of the most fun adventures I had in Tokyo (and there were a lot!).  Every stop on the Odaiba Monorail had some great architectural attraction.

The Island is actually artificial, built to protect Edo from the Americans at the end of the Edo Period.  It didn’t work, so Japan was forced to open itself to the world, exporting woodblock prints to Europe which would help to unleash impressionism.  But more about that later, here are a couple sights on Odaiba:

Fuji TV building with its giant spherical nodule.

Tokyo Big Site, conference centre that looks like an upside down pyramid.

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Jean Dubuffet #2

Update! 

These came from the blog http://www.contemporaryartdaily.com/

Check out these amazing sculptures by Jean Dubuffet in a show from 2008.  They look a little like Leger sculptures.

Jean Dubuffet Sculptures

see all the images here http://www.contemporaryartdaily.com/tag/jean-dubuffet/

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Jean Dubeffet

Jean Dubuffet is in the collections of many major museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which has the top two paintings, and the MOMA, which has many.  His work pus together a very inspired child-like aesthetic, married with a seriousness that allows the creation of work that aligns “the primitive” with the sublime and “high culture” ….. whatever any of those academic terms even mean.  I have always admired his work, that can play on so many levels, its seriously childishness, its muddy textures that evoke a faint trace of african tribal art, the dreamlike compositions. Overall an underappreciated artist who somehow founds his way to great collections.

Jean Dubb

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Wooden Gongs #2

It turns out that my blog entry on wooden gongs is the first hit for a google search of Wooden Gongs.  I never imagined that happening! More information about the Chinese wooden gong:

Chinese Slit Gong, Collection of Joel Garten

It is known as a “wooden fish” hence the fish carved at the top holding a pearl. It is called mùyú in Chinese.  It is used in Buddhist ceremonies during the recitation of sutras and matras.  Looking at how worn this one is, it must have had a lot of praying with it.

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Sunrise

Beautiful sunrise over Stony Lake where I was this past few days.  July 1 2010 Canada Day

july 1 2010

july 1 2010

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What People are saying about the Impromptu Concert

 

Jeanne Beker of Fashion Television, who was at last week’s impromptu concert where I played my solo piano improvisations, says about my music:

“Joel’s multi-layered music sweeps you away.  He paints rich and mysterious mental landscapes and magically creates awesome sculptural shapes in your mind’s eye that continually transform and mesmerize… This is like NOTHING you’ve ever heard!”

Berry Flatman, another concert attendee writes:

“Joel’s music is powerfully evocative and visually arresting – at times like a silent movie soundtrack ramped up on steroids. It is emotionally challenging – compelling you to reference shards of all the music you have ever heard, seemingly at once, layer upon layer.”

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The Eyes Have It

Two figures from the Ancient Near Eastern Art collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The first is an “Eye Idol” found in Tell Brak in Iraq.  The second is a figure found in the site Tell Asmar in Iraq.  Figures of these types were found in huge caches left in temples.  Although they are from very different time periods, (the first dates from 3000-3500 b.c., the second from 2750–2600 b.c.) they both have beautifully attentive, wide eyes, to which they owe their charm that peers out to us from across thousands of years.

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Richard Diebenkorn

In the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, they have a great collection of paintings by the artist Richard Diebenkorn, who I find to be very inspiring for my music.  In the museum they have one of his paintings next to a De Kooning, and it was fascinating to see how they had such different energies yet both tapped into the sublime.  Diebenkorn not only had a long career as an abstract painted but also had a long period where he did representational painting, showing just how multi-talented he was, and how he could channel his talent in many ways – a skill not very well appreciated in our time.  The Metropolitan Museum used to have one of his paintings in its Modern Art collections, but last time I was there it was sadly not hung. I received recently a catalogue of his early works which featured  Gorky-like figues with washes of colour.

Above is a painting of his most iconic style, one that has layers of luminous color in large and small rectangular fields, harmonious and cool to the touch of the eye.

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Wooden Gongs

This enormous Slit Gong is a wooden gong, similar types of which are found all throughout the South Pacific.  The Metropolitan Museum of Art has a collection of them on display in the Arts of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas collection.  This particular one comes from Vanuatu.  It is quite remarkable to see gongs made out of wood, though I have also seen gongs sets made out of carved stone in China. 

I have in my collection a wooden gong that was used in Chinese temple ceremonies. It has two fish heads at the top and is quite worn on one side.  It doesn’t have the most pleasant ring to it.

Chinese Slit Gong, Collection of Joel Garten

Chinese Slit Gong, Collection of Joel Garten

Chinese Slit Gong, Collection of Joel Garten

I also have a Burmese (Myanmar) wooden slit gong or bell.  Its clappers on the outside of the gong and shaped like elephants.  This is apparently a cow bell for an elephant (or elephant bell!).  It produces a wonderful clear sound.

Burmese Wooden Gong, Collection of Joel Garten

I have two Cambodian wooden bells, which I assume are also elephant bells due to their large size. They have a delightful bright sound to them.

Cambodian Wooden Gongs, Collection of Joel Garten

Cambodian Wooden Gongs, Collection of Joel Garten

I recently has a dream about the Chinese gong, and as I was looking at the Metropolitan Museum website I came across the slit gong above, and I remember wandering through the beautiful Oceania collection area in the museum, which I have done many times.  As I looked through my collection I realized I had two more wooden gongs, and I never realized I had so many.  Now I hope to build on that collection.  As I finish this post, I just received a call from my mother, filled with ululations from sheep, as she was at a sheep farm and put the phone up to the sheep so they could talk to me.

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